The Basics of Surfing

What is surfing?

Surfing is the sport of riding a moving ocean wave while standing on a board. As a wave rises and breaks near the shore, it makes a moving wall of water — a surfer slides along it for as long as they can. 🏄

It looks effortless when done well, but it takes practice, balance and a good understanding of the sea.

How waves work

Out at sea, waves are gentle rolling bumps of energy. As they reach shallow water near the beach, the bottom of the wave slows down and the top tips over and breaks. That breaking part is what surfers ride. Learning to spot a good wave forming is half the skill.

Catching a wave: paddle and pop-up

There are two key movements:

1. Paddling — lie flat on the board and pull through the water with your arms to build speed and match the wave.
2. The pop-up — as the wave picks you up, push up with your hands and spring your feet underneath you to stand in one smooth move.

Beginners practise the pop-up on the sand many times before trying it on the water, because doing it slowly or in stages makes you fall.

Surf etiquette and right of way

Lots of people share the same waves, so surfing has unwritten rules that keep everyone safe:

The surfer closest to the peak (the part of the wave breaking first) has the right of way.

• Do not "drop in" — that means taking off on a wave someone is already riding. It is rude and dangerous.
• When paddling back out, go around the riders, not in front of them.
• Wait your turn. Everyone gets waves.

Reading the ocean

Good surfers respect the sea. Before you paddle out you should look at:

• Where the waves are breaking and how big they are.
• Currents, especially rip currents — narrow, strong streams of water flowing back out to sea. If caught in one, stay calm and swim sideways along the beach until you are free, then head in. Never fight straight against it.
• Other surfers and swimmers nearby.

Safety first

The ocean is powerful, so safety comes before everything:

• Always surf where there is a lifeguard, and as a beginner, with a coach or supervising adult.
• Be a confident swimmer first.
• Wear a leash so your board stays with you, and learn how your board floats.
• Never surf alone, in big waves beyond your level, or in bad conditions.

Practice activity: sand pop-ups

On dry sand, lay your board (or just a towel) down. Lie flat with hands by your chest, then practise springing up into a balanced surfing stance — feet apart, knees bent, looking forward — all in one quick movement. Repeat it until it feels natural. The smoother your pop-up on land, the better you will ride on the water.

Now you know the basics

You understand waves, the pop-up, right of way and how to read the ocean safely. Start small, surf near a lifeguard, and practise your pop-up on the sand.

To prepare your body and water skills, read Balance and Coordination or Water Safety and Swimming Basics.